`A few things that I don’t really seem to accomplish:
- The smoke ring
- The perfect “bendy” tenderness
- Ideal moisture
I’ve smoked brisket unwrapped throughout the cook, and the last several times, I’ve wrapped in butcher paper. I haven’t wrapped in foil yet, so maybe that’s the ticket.
For two out of the three (tenderness and moisture), I decided to try something I saw in a YouTube video by Mad Scientist BBQ, in which the host says he thinks he’s cracked the secret as to why Aaron Franklin’s brisket is considered one of the best in the nation: applying tallow to the butcher paper right before wrapping.
Could This Be My Day?
I ordered a container of Wagyu beef tallow in preparation, as well as a commercial rub advertised as going well with brisket. Got the former, but the USPS dropped the ball on the latter.
I stopped by Costco to pick up the meat. It was a bigger size than I usually get from my local grocery store, so I figured this would be a 10-hour cook at least. Not exactly. I’ll get into that in a minute.
This time, I made sure to set my alarm (if you’re not sure why this is a notable point, refer to my previous post). To prepare this big guy, I used an on-the-fly rub consisting of equal parts Kosher salt and ground pepper, as well as a light coating of garlic powder and cayenne pepper. A pre-douse of Worcestershire sauce helped the rub stay on. I let it sit on the counter while I fired up the smoker at 250 degrees, complete with some pecan wood for a slightly nutty flavor.
The sun had not yet made its ascension when the brisket made its way onto the smoker. I figured I’d have a good 4-5 hours before the need to wrap. But here’s the thing: that internal temperature shot up quickly. In the past, I’ve experienced the infamous “temperature stall,” when the temperature climbs steadily, then halts for about an hour. Anyone who’s smoked brisket has probably experienced this, and the first time, it can be a little scary.
But that didn’t happen this time. After only three hours, the brisket hit 165 degrees internally. I lifted the lid, and the meat had fairly good color. Probably not ideal, but a good bronze hue and a decent crust.
I heated up the tallow in a saucepan, let it cool, then brought it out and drizzled it on the butcher paper, wrapped it, then placed back on the smoker. The process for achieving a super moist brisket was underway.
The temperature continued to climb steadily. I lowered the temperature 10 degrees to draw it out a little more. This thing was going to be done by noon at this rate, and I planned this whole day out to have it ready for dinner at 6 pm. After a few hours of resting.
About 12:30, the brisket came off and went into a cooler, where it sat for about five hours.
When I unwrapped, I wasn’t sure what to expect. The crust, which I anticipated looking wet and “glistening” didn’t. Not dry, but not wet. When I sliced, the moisture seemed to be somewhat elevated than what I normally see.
No smoke ring and I failed the “bendy” tenderness test once again. Fine tenderness, good moisture, but it wasn’t that brisket nirvana that I’d hoped to achieve.
Not sure what the remedies might be: lower temperature and a longer cook? Aluminum foil wrap (although the tallow technique probably wouldn’t apply here)? More tallow?
I’m attending Myron Mixon’s BBQ Cooking School in less than a month, so I hope I can pick up some tips that will help me get closer to the brisket that pleases my eyes, as well as my palate.
The Wine: 2013 Arnaldo Rivera Barolo
Brisket is arguably the boldest expression of beef. Therefore, it deserves a bold wine partner to provide the ideal complement. For this day’s feast, I chose the 2013 Barolo from Aronold Rivera.
This wine is 100 percent Nebbiolo that is fermented and macerated for about three weeks in stainless steel at a controlled temperature, and aged 26 months in French oak and six months in concrete tanks.
The wine’s name is a memorial to a man who was passionate about wine and worked tirelessly to create and help thrive the Tierre del Barolo, a cooperative winery based in Castiglione Falletto, in the Langhe area of northern Italy, renowned for the production of the main Piedmontese wines.
The official Arnaldo Rivera website details the history of one of the region’s premier wine pioneers:
The reasons that led Arnaldo Rivera to envisage a cooperative winery in Barolo are associated with his profound understanding of the particular characteristics of the area and its people, combined with great foresight and a desire for social justice.
His greatest achievement, however, was the creation of Terre del Barolo, overcoming problems and hostility in a masterpiece of rural solidarity pursued with determination in the firm belief that it was an essential means to ending the subordination of the weakest and defending their human dignity.
Terre del Barolo had become a major player in the area, capable of mitigating the impact of the depopulation of this part of Piedmont in favour of the new industrialized urban centres springing up throughout the north of Italy, and laying the foundations for the worldwide success that Barolo and the Langhe have now enjoyed for several decades.
As for the wine itself, it was definitely a powerful experience. The wine ideally complemented the brisket with bold dark fruit earthy notes on the nose, along with dense hints of tobacco. The palate, likewise, delivered on the dark red fruits and blackberries, as well as herby flavors. This was an eight-year-old wine, but the tannins were still vibrant. I actually had to aerate it with a glass twice to calm them down a little. This wine could have aged another ten years and been superb.
I don’t get to drink Barolo very often, but when you’re trying to achieve the perfect brisket, it’s a good time to break out the ideal wine partner.
Cheers!